Walking route Passages (Bourse)

Start: Metro Bourse
End: Metro Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
Distance: 3.1 km
Duration: 2 hours
Last update: November 3, 2022

Overview

Route information

1. From the metro, take Rue Vivienne and turn right at the third street, Rue Saint-Marc. The second entrance on the left is Passage des Panoramas, one of the oldest Parisian passages, dating back to 1799.

The American James William Thayer built two towers in 1799 to display his panoramas, which were painted on the walls. He added a passage to keep visitors out of the mud and rain. In 1834, the Saint-Marc, des Variétés, de Feydeau, and Montmartre galleries were added. Today, the towers are gone. Inside the passages, you’ll find shops selling coins, stamps, and vintage postcards. In Galerie des Variétés, there is an artist entrance to the Théâtre des Variétés. At No. 57, there is a tea salon, L’Arbre à Cannelle, with an accompanying patisserie, featuring a beautiful Belle Époque-style façade.

2. Exit Passage des Panoramas (as of October 2022, under renovation but still accessible) and cross Boulevard Montmartre. You will now enter Passage Jouffroy, built in 1836.

This was the first passage entirely made of glass and iron, and the first to have underfloor heating. The Grévin Wax Museum has been here since 1882, featuring 300 wax figures. The passage has an L-shape and continues after Rue de la Grange-Batelière as Passage Verdeau. You’ll find antique shops, a store specializing in walking canes, a dollhouse shop, a jewelry store, and a film bookstore.

3. Exit Passage Jouffroy and cross Rue de la Grange-Batelière. You are now in Passage Verdeau.

This bright and airy passage is named after a member of the Société du Passage Jouffroy. Built by the same architect as Passage Jouffroy, it has retained almost all of its original appearance. The passage features a high glass roof and neoclassical decorations. Clocks hang at both entrances. It has long benefited from its proximity to the auction house Maison Drouot, which has been located nearby since 1849. Many collectors walk into Passage Verdeau after an auction to look for old books, cameras, and furniture. Near the entrance to Rue de la Grange-Batelière, you’ll find the restaurant-traiteur I Golosi. At No. 7, there is the restaurant Le Bistrot.

4. Exit Passage Verdeau, turn right onto Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, then right again onto Rue de la Grange-Batelière. Just past the entrance to Passage Jouffroy, turn left onto Rue Rossini. Follow the curve to the right and turn left at Rue de Drouot. Cross Boulevard Montmartre to Rue de Richelieu. The first right is Passage des Princes.

As of October 2022, Passage des Princes is closed. You can look inside—it appears restored, but all the shops are empty.

To continue the route, turn right onto Rue d’Amboise, then right again onto Rue Favart, and then left to return to Boulevard des Italiens.

In 1859, banker Mirès bought the Grand Hôtel des Princes et de l’Europe on Rue de Richelieu and had Passage Mirès built. However, by the time the passage opened, he had gone bankrupt. Over time, the passage was restored multiple times. In 1985, it was demolished due to construction work but was later rebuilt. Today, it mainly houses toy stores.

5. At the end of Passage des Princes, turn left onto Boulevard des Italiens and take the third left onto Rue de Gramont. Follow this street to Rue Saint-Augustin and turn right. Then, take an immediate left into Passage de Choiseul.

Built on the site of four mansions, only one gate remains, now serving as the northern entrance. The passage was initially very popular due to its theater (Le Théâtre des Bouffes-Parisiennes, now a bank) and the presence of many writers. The author Céline lived here for several years during his youth. Today, it is a fairly ordinary passage with clothing, shoe, and book stores.

6. Exit Passage de Choiseul and turn left onto Rue des Petits Champs. After the Bibliothèque nationale, take the second left into Galerie Colbert.

Built to rival Galerie Vivienne, it stands on the site of a mansion that once belonged to Jean-Baptiste Colbert and later to Regent Philippe d’Orléans. It is one of the most beautiful passages in Paris. The passage features a 15-meter-diameter rotunda with a glass dome. Under it once stood a bronze candelabra with seven crystal globes that burned gas. Now, a statue of Eurydice from 1822 stands in its place. The gallery closed in 1975, and in 1986, the Bibliothèque nationale purchased and restored it according to the original designs. It now hosts lectures and concerts in the auditorium beneath the rotunda. There are no shops in this gallery, only an upscale restaurant, Le Grand Colbert.

In Galerie Colbert, turn right into Galerie Vivienne.

This passage was commissioned by notary Marchoux, who wanted to create the most beautiful passage in Paris. Indeed, it is one of the city’s most elegant and ornate passages, richly decorated in a neoclassical style with statues of nymphs and goddesses symbolizing commerce. The mosaic floor was designed by Italian artist Giandomenico Faccina. The monumental staircase at No. 13 leads to the former apartment of the adventurer Vidocq, who lived there until his death in 1857. Today, Galerie Vivienne is home to many fashion boutiques, a wine shop by Legrand, a bookstore, a silk flower shop, and even a boutique by designer Jean-Paul Gaultier. At the tea salon A Priori Thé, you can enjoy a lovely lunch, and there is also a restaurant, Bistrot Vivienne.

7. At the end of Galerie Vivienne, cross Rue des Petits Champs and walk via Rue des Pavillons to the gardens and galleries of Palais Royal.

Walk across the courtyard with the artwork by Daniel Buren to Rue Saint-Honoré and the Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre metro station.