Walking route Mansions in the Marais

This walk takes you through the 3rd and 4th arrondissements

start: place des Vosges
end: place des Vosges
duration: 2.5 hours (4 km)

Overview

Description

The Place des Vosges (pronounced: vózje) is one of the oldest and most beautiful squares in Paris, built by order of Henry IV in 1612. With its red brick and white limestone houses, arcades, and symmetrical design, it is also one of the most picturesque squares in the city. The 36 houses were constructed according to strict guidelines: the height of the facades is equal to their width, and the roofs are half the height of the facades. Only the Pavillon du Roi on the south side and the Pavillon de la Reine on the north side are taller. The square itself is a perfect 108-meter square.

At the center of the square is Square Louis XIII, featuring an equestrian statue of Louis XIII. Originally called Place Royale, the area where the garden is now was once a field used for festivities and tournaments. Napoleon renamed it Place des Vosges in gratitude to the Vosges department, which was the first to pay taxes in 1800.

Many famous French figures have lived here, including Descartes, Pascal, Alphonse Daudet, Richelieu, and Georges Simenon. At No. 6, Victor Hugo lived in the Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée from 1832 to 1848, where he wrote part of Les Misérables. Today, it houses the Victor Hugo Museum. Under the arcades, you’ll find elegant boutiques, antique shops, and a few restaurants.

Route Information

1. Go to the southwest corner of the square, where you enter Hôtel de Sully through a door at number 7.

You will enter the beautiful French courtyard of Hôtel de Béthune-Sully, a mansion from 1624 with a late Renaissance facade, a paved courtyard, and a garden. The Duke of Sully, minister of Henri IV, purchased the building in 1634 and had it beautifully decorated. The garden and courtyard are open to visitors, as is the bookstore. The building itself is not accessible. It houses the Centre des Monuments Nationaux, an organization overseeing French monuments.

2. Walk through the courtyards to the main entrance of Hôtel de Sully on Rue Saint-Antoine and turn right. Take the first left onto Rue Saint-Paul.

Just past Rue Charlemagne on the right, there is a passage leading to Village Saint-Paul, which consists of five interconnected medieval courtyards. Here, you will find antique shops, boutiques, and cafes. The absence of traffic creates a peaceful atmosphere.

3. Exit Village Saint-Paul via Rue des Jardins de Saint-Paul and turn left.

You will see remnants of two towers and a section of the old city wall of Philippe Auguste from 1190.

4. Turn right onto Rue de l’Ave Maria.

On the left is the small Square Marie Trintignant, named after the French actress who passed away in 2003.

5. Cross Rue du Fauconnier and continue straight onto Rue du Figuier.

You will approach Hôtel de Sens, one of the few remaining medieval civilian buildings in Paris. Built between 1475 and 1519 for the Archbishop of Sens, it later housed Henri IV’s ex-wife Margot, who had a fig tree cut down to make way for her carriage. Now, three other fig trees stand in front of the building. The Bibliothèque Forney, a library specializing in the arts, is located here and is open from Tuesday to Saturday. Regular exhibitions are also held. Across the street, the Jardin Figuier Fauconnier is open to the public.

6. Continue down Rue du Figuier, turn left briefly, then right onto Rue de Fourcy.

At numbers 5-7, you will find the European Museum of Photography, housed in the restored Hôtel Hénault de Cantobre from 1706, with a modern landscaped front garden.

7. Turn left onto Rue François Miron.

Numbers 11 and 13 are medieval half-timbered houses from the 15th and 16th centuries. At number 68 stands Hôtel de Beauvais, built in 1655, where a young Mozart once stayed with his family. It has a stunning interior that can be visited.

8. Turn right onto Rue Tiron, then left onto Rue de Rivoli. Cross Rue de Rivoli and take the second right onto Rue Vieille du Temple. Cross Rue des Rosiers and continue to number 47.

This building is Hôtel Amelot de Bisseuil, also known as Hôtel des Ambassadeurs de Hollande. No Dutch ambassador ever lived here, but in the 17th century, a chaplain from the Dutch embassy held Protestant services in this building. After the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, Protestant services were officially banned, except in embassies of Protestant countries. In 1776, writer and composer Beaumarchais rented the building and wrote The Marriage of Figaro here.

9. Walk back slightly on Rue Vieille du Temple and turn left onto Rue des Rosiers.

This street is the heart of the Jewish quarter, featuring Jewish bookstores, delis, and kosher restaurants. However, many Jewish businesses have been replaced by trendy fashion stores. The famous Jo Goldenberg restaurant has closed. The street is lively, especially on Sundays, and offers excellent Jewish cuisine such as falafel and pickled lemons. The name “Rosiers” comes from an old rose garden along the city wall of Philippe Auguste.

10. Turn left onto Rue Pavée.

This was the first street in Paris to be paved in the 15th century. At number 10 stands the synagogue designed by Art Nouveau architect Guimard in 1913 for Eastern European Jewish immigrants.

At number 24 is Hôtel de Lamoignon, built in 1584 for Diane de France, the illegitimate daughter of Henri II. Later, it was named after the first president of the French Parliament. Diane was fond of hunting, as seen in the decorative elements on the facade. On the corner with Rue des Francs-Bourgeois is a beautiful square turret. Today, the building houses the Historical Library of Paris.

11. Turn right onto Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, then left onto Rue de Sévigné.

At numbers 23-29 stands the Musée Carnavalet, the historical museum of Paris. The museum occupies two buildings: Hôtel Carnavalet (1560), a fine example of Renaissance architecture, and Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau. The two buildings are connected by a passage on the first floor. The garden is a classic French courtyard.

12. Turn left onto Rue du Parc-Royal.

This street is lined with beautiful, well-restored mansions. Two small parks remain from the vast Parc Royal of the 15th century: Square Léopold Achille (at number 5) and Square Georges Cain (behind it, entrance on Rue Payenne). At number 11 on Rue Payenne is the Swedish Cultural Center, which has a cafe serving Swedish food and drinks.

13. Continue on Rue du Parc-Royal and turn right at Place de Thorigny onto Rue de Thorigny.

At number 5 is the Musée Picasso, housed in Hôtel Salé (1656). Originally home to a tax collector for salt, the museum’s garden is partially accessible via Rue des Coutures.

14. Return to Place de Thorigny, turn right onto Rue de la Perle.

At the corner of Rue Vieille du Temple, you will find the complex that housed the French National Archives until 2013. It includes Hôtel de Soubise, Hôtel de Rohan, and four other mansions.

15. Continue on Rue de la Perle, which becomes Rue des Quatre Fils.

At number 60 on Rue des Archives is the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, housed in the beautiful Hôtel Guénégaud des Brosses (1655), designed by François Mansart.

16. Turn left onto Rue des Archives, then left onto Rue des Francs-Bourgeois.

This street features several stunning mansions, including Hôtel de Soubise, Hôtel de Jaucourt, and Hôtel de Coulanges, among others.

17. Continue on Rue des Francs-Bourgeois and turn right onto Rue de Sévigné until you reach Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine on your left.

This charming pedestrian square is a peaceful retreat with benches and cafes. It was once the site of the Sainte-Catherine Church, demolished in 1783.

18. Walk past the square, turn left onto Rue d’Ormesson, then left onto Rue de Turenne, and right onto Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, leading back to Place des Vosges.